Week 9 - Plovdiv

This week...

My family came to Bulgaria! This trip was the third edition of Dickmans in Europe (surname Dick plus surname Eastman, you get it), and we had a blast. I met them after they landed in Sofia, the capital of Bulgaria. I played tour guide as we visited the main attractions, which are listed in my post about my first trip to Sofia, and we attended a local football game at Balgarska Armia Stadium.

On the third day we picked up our rental 9-passenger stick shift van and headed out east to Plovdiv, one of the most culturally and historically rich towns in Bulgaria. We stayed in an Airbnb in the Kapana neighborhood. Kapana translates literally to "The Trap," which is what the area is known as because it is lively and bustling with shops and restaurants for the tourists. When we arrived, we realized the four bedroom Airbnb I had rented was actually an entire hostel. That's how cheap things are in Bulgaria.

I Learned...

Old Town

Plovdiv is the oldest continually inhabited city in Europe. The Old Town, located just east of Kapana, is where the history starts. It's earliest inhabitance was around 6000 BC, and life in the area hasn't stopped since. The lives of the different peoples, including the Thracians, Romans, Byzantines, Ottomans, and of course early Bulgarians, are visible in the layers of history in the town. Original cobblestone roads, fortification walls, water supply, and sewage systems are still used today. The town is built on three hills, with an ancient fortress on the top of Nebet hill where there is a stunning view of the city.  

View of Plovdiv from Nebet hill with 8,000 year old remains

Roman Theatre of Philippopolis

Plovdiv is home to one of the best preserved ancient theaters in the world. Due to a land slide in 1970, the Roman Theatre of Philippopolis was rediscovered after being buried by centuries of civilization. Originally built in the first century under Roman Emperor Trajan, the 28-rowed theater has marble seats for up to about seven thousand spectators. The venue was host to theater performances and the Thracian provincial assembly as well as gladiatorial fights against animals. It's still in use today hosting plays and concerts. Its restoration is one of the most noteworthy achievements of the Bulgarian Conservation School.

Ancient Roman Theatre of Philippopolis

I Ate...

Best Pork Ribs in Bulgaria

I haven't eaten all the pork ribs in this country, but I can confirm these are the best I've had out of the cities I've visited. At Coupon restaurant in The Trap, the food does not match the unfortunate name. Besides the ribs, we had amazing gyoza and even beef tail that was slow roasted for over 40 hours. Something I've yet to mention is that many Bulgarian restaurants have their own homemade lemonade, often infused with other fruits or herbs. It's not like the American homemade lemonade that's loaded with sugar or Splenda; it's much better. 

Trdelník

I saw a sign for what looked like the kürtőskalács I had in Budapest, so I immediately led my family inside. However these were called trdelník (singular trdlo), a Czech name for the dessert. It has origins in Slovakia and Hungary and is now popular in the Czech Republic. The spit cake is made from dough rolled onto a wooden pin, grilled, and topped with a walnut sugar mix. The shop, Trdlo Vanesa, is owned by a friendly Czech man who makes the trdelník to order and fills them with your liking of ice cream, custard, or fruit.

Patiently waiting for our made-to-order trdelník, seen grilling on the lower right

I Experienced...

Spring has Arrived

As we hiked through Old Town to the top of Nebet hill, we were chilled with the low temperatures of the late winter which had lasted all week. We were admiring the view of the city from the top of the hill when I looked past my dad and gasped. The tree at the tallest point had red and white threads hanging from its branches. I took a closer look; the tree was blooming! I called out to my family, "Y'all, look! The tree is blooming!" I ordered them to remove their martenitsi I had given them upon their arrival and hang them on the tree with a wish for the year. Spring was approaching! 

If you have no idea what I'm talking about, I recommend you read this section of my blog post I wrote on the 1st of March about the Baba Marta holiday. We were hopeful our sight of the first blooming tree would satisfy Baba Marta enough to bring warmer temperatures, and guess what? The next day's weather was unbeatable. 

It's simple moments like these when I realize the smallest things in life bring so much joy, especially when you have the opportunity to travel and know more about the world. Experiencing cultures other than your own brings a wider perspective than can be imagined. Every spring I've lived, I've never noticed the first blooming tree back home. Now, I will never miss another one. 

Plovdiv view with the blossoming tree and martenitsi in the foreground

Julia Dick